Need help with ac generator. Low ac voltage output.

Question:

I acquired an Old Sears 5000 watt generator that has only 7 volts ac output at the 115 volt ac outlets. From research, I understand I would have no output if rotor needed magnetized although I have tried remagnetizing the rotor and it made no difference, still have 7 volts ac output. Here is a web page I made. http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm It shows the bridge rectifier and how it is configured plus other items that I am not sure if I need to check. Also, I am not sure if the bridge rectifier is the problem with the way it is configured. I replaced all the diodes and the capacitor in the rectifier and it didn’t resolve my problem. Here are some readings from the generator. Not sure if the different ohm readings (2.5 and .3) in the stator show a problem. 115 volt ac outlet – Only 7 volts ac output Stator – 2.5 ohms resistance thru one side of the windings. .3 ohms resistance thru other side of the windings. No continuity from windings to ground. No continuity from one side of windings to the other. Rotor – 50 ohms resistance thru rotor from one slip ring to the other slip ring. No continuity from either slip ring to ground. Any input as to what the problem might be would be appreciated.

Response:

Try "flashing" the field by applying a DC voltage (12 volts from a battery is usualy sufficient) to the exciter. Just apply apply voltage for a second and the the output should build up. A residual should remain in the iron and be enough to self excite if you don’t go too long between start-ups.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I acquired an Old Sears 5000 watt generator that has only 7 volts ac > output at the 115 volt ac outlets. From research, I understand I would > have no output if rotor needed magnetized although I have tried > remagnetizing the rotor and it made no difference, still have 7 volts > ac output. > Here is a web page I made. > http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm > It shows the bridge rectifier and how it is configured plus other > items that I am not sure if I need to check. Also, I am not sure if > the bridge rectifier is the problem with the way it is configured. I > replaced all the diodes and the capacitor in the rectifier and it > didn’t resolve my problem. > Here are some readings from the generator. Not sure if the different > ohm readings (2.5 and .3) in the stator show a problem. > 115 volt ac outlet – Only 7 volts ac output > Stator – 2.5 ohms resistance thru one side of the windings. > .3 ohms resistance thru other side of the windings. > No continuity from windings to ground. > No continuity from one side of windings to the other. > Rotor – 50 ohms resistance thru rotor from one slip ring to the > other slip ring. > No continuity from either slip ring to ground. > Any input as to what the problem might be would be appreciated.

Response:

Stranger things have happened but are you sure that you have your voltmeter set on a.c. when measuring? Cass

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I acquired an Old Sears 5000 watt generator that has only 7 volts ac > output at the 115 volt ac outlets. From research, I understand I would > have no output if rotor needed magnetized although I have tried > remagnetizing the rotor and it made no difference, still have 7 volts > ac output. > Here is a web page I made. > http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm > It shows the bridge rectifier and how it is configured plus other > items that I am not sure if I need to check. Also, I am not sure if > the bridge rectifier is the problem with the way it is configured. I > replaced all the diodes and the capacitor in the rectifier and it > didn’t resolve my problem. > Here are some readings from the generator. Not sure if the different > ohm readings (2.5 and .3) in the stator show a problem. > 115 volt ac outlet – Only 7 volts ac output > Stator – 2.5 ohms resistance thru one side of the windings. > .3 ohms resistance thru other side of the windings. > No continuity from windings to ground. > No continuity from one side of windings to the other. > Rotor – 50 ohms resistance thru rotor from one slip ring to the > other slip ring. > No continuity from either slip ring to ground. > Any input as to what the problem might be would be appreciated.

Those readings may not show any internally shorted windings. Does the generator motor appear to be labouring? If the motor is not labouring, then the windings are likely okay. Bridge config is fine. Have you measured the voltage across the cap? Should be (7 x 1.414) – 1.4 or somewhere near 8 volts, giving all of 150mA rotor current, which once the voltage builds up should go to approx 2 to 3 amps. However, that being said, how does the generator limit the output voltage? i.e., as the voltage increases on the output, the voltage to the rotor increases, which increase the rotor current which causes an increase in output voltage, which further increases the rotor current. . . . Maybe the heat-sink thingy is a zener diode? (voltage limiter) You then should have some resistor to control the current through the zener. Could the zener be shorted? Could the resistor be open? The zener should read similar to a normal diode with your ohmmeter. (.7 volt drop one way, zener drop the other way). Or maybe the heat-sink thingy is a current regulator? Voltage in? Voltage out? Can you draw the wiring on your website as to how the heat-sink thingy is connected? Just some initial thoughts…. John

Response:

I have already attempted to remagnetize the rotor and it didn’t make any difference. As far as the exciter, I don’t know that this generator has one. It has a rotor and a stator and a bridge rectifier in between the rotor and stator. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Try "flashing" the field by applying a DC voltage (12 volts from a battery > is usualy sufficient) to the exciter. Just apply apply voltage for a second > and the the output should build up. A residual should remain in the iron and > be enough to self excite if you don’t go too long between start-ups.

Response:

Yes, I am positive the readings I listed are correct. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Stranger things have happened but are you sure that you have your voltmeter > set on a.c. when measuring? > Cass

Response:

Thanks John, The motor does not seem to be laboring at all. I had the capacitor tested at my local electronic store and it was fine, but I purchased a new one seing it was only a few cents and installed it and it made no difference. As far as how the generator limits the output voltage, I do not know. The heat sink thingy is one of a half dozon or more wires coming out of the stator. It is somehow part of the 12 volt dc output because there is continuity between it and the positive terminal of the 12 volt dc. There is no continuity between it and anything else. Here is a close up photo of it removed from the gen. It is part of a aluminum plate. http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/MVC-021E.JPG I guess I am know questioning the transformer looking thing. I thought is was for the 12 volt dc output, but there are 3 wires coming from the stator that go into the tranformer and then 2 wires come out of the transformer and go to the 230 volt ac outlets. But I would tend to believe that the transformer could not be the problem if it is limited to the ac output side of the generator because the 12 volt dc output is low also, reading around 2 volts dc. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Those readings may not show any internally shorted windings. Does the > generator motor appear to be labouring? If the motor is not > labouring, then the windings are likely okay. > Bridge config is fine. Have you measured the voltage across the cap? > Should be (7 x 1.414) – 1.4 or somewhere near 8 volts, giving all of > 150mA rotor current, which once the voltage builds up should go to > approx 2 to 3 amps. > However, that being said, how does the generator limit the output > voltage? i.e., as the voltage increases on the output, the voltage to > the rotor increases, which increase the rotor current which causes an > increase in output voltage, which further increases the rotor current. > . . . > Maybe the heat-sink thingy is a zener diode? (voltage limiter) You > then should have some resistor to control the current through the > zener. Could the zener be shorted? Could the resistor be open? The > zener should read similar to a normal diode with your ohmmeter. (.7 > volt drop one way, zener drop the other way). > Or maybe the heat-sink thingy is a current regulator? Voltage in? > Voltage out? > Can you draw the wiring on your website as to how the heat-sink thingy > is connected? > Just some initial thoughts…. > John

Response:

I did check the heat-sink thingy in the diode mode of my multimeter and it does have .5 volt drop one way and nothing the other way. http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/MVC-021E.JPG – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Maybe the heat-sink thingy is a zener diode? (voltage limiter) You > then should have some resistor to control the current through the > zener. Could the zener be shorted? Could the resistor be open? The > zener should read similar to a normal diode with your ohmmeter. (.7 > volt drop one way, zener drop the other way). > Or maybe the heat-sink thingy is a current regulator? Voltage in? > Voltage out? > Can you draw the wiring on your website as to how the heat-sink thingy > is connected? > Just some initial thoughts…. > John

Response:

that is a diode and you got the correct results. it’s used to chop the ac into dc. — Steve Spence Subscribe to the Renewable Energy Newsletter & Discussion Boards. Read about Sustainable Technology: http://www.green-trust.org

> I did check the heat-sink thingy in the diode mode of my multimeter > and it does have .5 volt drop one way and nothing the other way. > http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/MVC-021E.JPG

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Maybe the heat-sink thingy is a zener diode? (voltage limiter) You > then should have some resistor to control the current through the > zener. Could the zener be shorted? Could the resistor be open? The > zener should read similar to a normal diode with your ohmmeter. (.7 > volt drop one way, zener drop the other way). > Or maybe the heat-sink thingy is a current regulator? Voltage in? > Voltage out? > Can you draw the wiring on your website as to how the heat-sink thingy > is connected? > Just some initial thoughts…. > John

Response:

I attempted to magnetizing the rotor with the generator running and with my multimeter plugged into the 115 ac outlet. When I connected the 12 volt battery to the slip ring brush terminals to magnetize the rotor with the generator running, the voltage on the multimeter would climb rapidly, but as soon as I disconnected the 12 volt battery, the ac voltage would settle right back to 10.5 volts ac. Don’t know if this means anything. You can see from this diagram where I connected the battery. http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/rectifier.jpg I connected it to where you see the + and -. Would switching the polarity of the 12v battery where I connected it make any difference? There are no polarity markings on the rotor brushes. I just assumed the red wire off one brush was positive and the white wire off the other brush was negative. Could I have my polarity backwards and be reversing the polarity of the magnetism of the rotor? Is that a possibility?

Response:

not sure will have to look at the pics a little longer but at first look you bridge rectifier is wired up wrong but l reserve the right to change my mind lol

Response:

yeap l was wrong forget about that thought it was to easy have to think some more

Response:

what can you tell us about the regulator?pics would be a good idea there does have to be one, doesn’t there?(my work has been on car alternators, but its the same thing just smaller) what is the voltage to the rotor (i.e across the cap like john asked)when the generator is running? my guess is 0v, if it is 0v what is the voltage on the stator side of the bridge rectifier? your output voltages seem ok(by this l mean if you get 10.5v to 115 then the 1 to 1.5v should hit about 12v l think)

Response:

> what can you tell us about the regulator?pics would be a good idea > there does have to be one, doesn’t there?(my work has been on car > alternators, but its the same thing just smaller) > what is the voltage to the rotor (i.e across the cap like john asked)when > the generator is running? > my guess is 0v, if it is 0v what is the voltage on the stator side of the > bridge rectifier? > your output voltages seem ok(by this l mean if you get 10.5v to 115 then the > 1 to 1.5v should hit about 12v l think)

I placed the readings you asked for on my web page along with some more photos and questions. http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm Let me know what you think. Also, there are photos showing what might be the voltage regulator. Thanks Reading across capacitor (rotor side of bridge rectifier) – 1.4 volts AC Reading from stator side of bridge rectifier – .4 volts AC Reading from rotor with bridge rectifier removed – 52 volts AC Reading from input side of stator with bridge rectifier removed – 1.5 volts AC

Response:

When I initially plug in my multimeter to measure the voltage from the 115 volt AC outlet, it will read 115 volts AC for a fraction of a second and then the reading drops and settles to 7.5 to 10.5 volts AC. It seems as if it cannot handle any amount of load. Does this show a problem somewhere in the generator? http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm

Response:

Have you cleaned the commutator? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > When I initially plug in my multimeter to measure the voltage from the > 115 volt AC outlet, it will read 115 volts AC for a fraction of a > second and then the reading drops and settles to 7.5 to 10.5 volts AC. > It seems as if it cannot handle any amount of load. Does this show a > problem somewhere in the generator? > http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm

Response:

Yes, I have cleaned both the stator and rotor surfaces. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Have you cleaned the commutator? > When I initially plug in my multimeter to measure the voltage from the > 115 volt AC outlet, it will read 115 volts AC for a fraction of a > second and then the reading drops and settles to 7.5 to 10.5 volts AC. > It seems as if it cannot handle any amount of load. Does this show a > problem somewhere in the generator? > http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm

Response:

This is a brush-type genny – so how are the brushes? And where is the field getting the DC input?

Response:

> When I initially plug in my multimeter to measure the voltage from the > 115 volt AC outlet, it will read 115 volts AC for a fraction of a > second and then the reading drops and settles to 7.5 to 10.5 volts AC. > It seems as if it cannot handle any amount of load. Does this show a > problem somewhere in the generator?

Maybe the problem is with your multimeter. Don

Response:

>I placed the readings you asked for on my web page along with some >more photos and questions. >http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm Let me know what you >think. Also, there are photos showing what might be the voltage >regulator. Thanks >Reading across capacitor (rotor side of bridge rectifier) – 1.4 volts >AC >Reading from stator side of bridge rectifier – .4 volts AC >Reading from rotor with bridge rectifier removed – 52 volts AC

This tells you there is enough residual magnetism to get the thing going. >Reading from input side of stator with bridge rectifier removed – 1.5 >volts AC

Without a schematic these readings don’t mean anything. Why don’t you sit down and sketch out a schematic of the whole machine? Then it will be easy to pinpoint your problem. John — John De Armond http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/ Cleveland, Occupied TN

Response:

The brushes are good. Second question I don’t know the answer. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > This is a brush-type genny – so how are the brushes? And where is the field > getting the DC input?

Response:

Multimeter is fine. The generator has no ability to handle a load. I can plug a light buld into it and it will not light. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Maybe the problem is with your multimeter. > Don

Response:

> Multimeter is fine. The generator has no ability to handle a load. I > can plug a light buld into it and it will not light.

Are you running it at the proper RPM? The symptoms you are seeing are similar to what I see if I throttle my genset back to about half the the proper speed. (Insufficient excitation current is produced.) Harry C.

Response:

Did you clean the contact surface where the brushes meet the shaft? Offgridman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > The brushes are good. Second question I don’t know the answer. >This is a brush-type genny – so how are the brushes? And where is the field >getting the DC input?

Response:

The low voltage is probably because you’re only working off of residual magnetism in the rotor with no field excitation at all. Maybe the field is excited by the engine alternator and there is a problem there (e.g. there doesn’t necessarily have to be field input from windings on the generator itself if it’s a brush-type).

> Did you clean the contact surface where the brushes meet the shaft? > Offgridman > The brushes are good. Second question I don’t know the answer.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>This is a brush-type genny – so how are the brushes? And where is the field >>getting the DC input?

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I attempted to magnetizing the rotor with the generator running and >with my multimeter plugged into the 115 ac outlet. When I connected >the 12 volt battery to the slip ring brush terminals to magnetize the >rotor with the generator running, the voltage on the multimeter would >climb rapidly, but as soon as I disconnected the 12 volt battery, the >ac voltage would settle right back to 10.5 volts ac. Don’t know if >this means anything. >You can see from this diagram where I connected the battery. >http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/rectifier.jpg I connected it to >where you see the + and -. Would switching the polarity of the 12v >battery where I connected it make any difference? There are no >polarity markings on the rotor brushes. I just assumed the red wire >off one brush was positive and the white wire off the other brush was >negative. Could I have my polarity backwards and be reversing the >polarity of the magnetism of the rotor? Is that a possibility?

It is possible – but the polarity is not critical on an AC device. Only possible effect would be the ambient magnetism being backwards from the field current magnetism. The fact that output increased rapidly when "full fielded" means you have both fiels and stator continuity. I would pull your bridge and put 12 volts AC on the stator side and see what you get out of the fiels side. What diodes were originally on the bridge? What are you using now? Possibly you have too high a forward drop. If you are using silicon diodes you have a minimum .6V forward drop. If it had Germanium diodes, the drop was only roughly 0.3 volts. If it had a "plate" rectifier, either selenium or copper oxide, the forward drop is higher, IIRC.

Response:

> It is possible – but the polarity is not critical on an AC device. > Only possible effect would be the ambient magnetism being backwards > from the field current magnetism. > The fact that output increased rapidly when "full fielded" means you > have both fiels and stator continuity. > I would pull your bridge and put 12 volts AC on the stator side and > see what you get out of the fiels side. What diodes were originally on > the bridge? What are you using now? Possibly you have too high a > forward drop. If you are using silicon diodes you have a minimum .6V > forward drop. If it had Germanium diodes, the drop was only roughly > 0.3 volts. If it had a "plate" rectifier, either selenium or copper > oxide, the forward drop is higher, IIRC.

Here are the specs on the diodes. I listed them as they appear on the specification sheets. Note that the original factory diodes were replaced some time in the past so I am not sure of the generators original diodes specs. I tried to get a manual from sears but it is now longer available. Maybe I could get that info from the sears repair center. Also, I noticed that the generator is labeled as a 5000 watt alternator. I don’t know if that would make any difference in trying to diagnose the problem. The old diodes I removed: max peak reverse voltage – 1000v max average forward current amps – 3 max peak surge forward current amps – 70.0 The new diodes are: peak inverse voltage – 1000V forward current – 2.5A max surge current - 80A forward voltage drop (Vf) at If – 1V

Response:

Do you mean 12 volt DC? And if I apply 12 DC through the stator, what should I expect for a reading on the field side? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It is possible – but the polarity is not critical on an AC device. > Only possible effect would be the ambient magnetism being backwards > from the field current magnetism. > The fact that output increased rapidly when "full fielded" means you > have both fiels and stator continuity. > I would pull your bridge and put 12 volts AC on the stator side and > see what you get out of the fiels side. What diodes were originally on > the bridge? What are you using now? Possibly you have too high a > forward drop. If you are using silicon diodes you have a minimum .6V > forward drop. If it had Germanium diodes, the drop was only roughly > 0.3 volts. If it had a "plate" rectifier, either selenium or copper > oxide, the forward drop is higher, IIRC.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Do you mean 12 volt DC? And if I apply 12 DC through the stator, what > should I expect for a reading on the field side? > It is possible – but the polarity is not critical on an AC device. > Only possible effect would be the ambient magnetism being backwards > from the field current magnetism. > The fact that output increased rapidly when "full fielded" means you > have both fiels and stator continuity. > I would pull your bridge and put 12 volts AC on the stator side and > see what you get out of the fiels side. What diodes were originally on > the bridge? What are you using now? Possibly you have too high a > forward drop. If you are using silicon diodes you have a minimum .6V > forward drop. If it had Germanium diodes, the drop was only roughly > 0.3 volts. If it had a "plate" rectifier, either selenium or copper > oxide, the forward drop is higher, IIRC.

According to this article, you should not apply a DC voltage to the stator. http://tpub.com/basae/32.htm This seems like it contains some information that you have. From the invormation that you have provided it is sounding more and more like the field circuit is not a permenant magnet. You should look at the DC generator that is providing the field for the rotor. Questor — This message was created using the freeware version of Codeforge Sophax – www.codeforge.co.uk

Response:

>Do you mean 12 volt DC? And if I apply 12 DC through the stator, what >should I expect for a reading on the field side?

No. I mean 12 volts AC. AC into the bridge gives DC out to the field. The stator produces AC.. You should get 12/.707= something like 15-16 volts DC out. This is because 12 volts RMS AC is 16.97 volts peak to peak. The bridge gives you the P-P voltage less the drop of 2 diodes – usually figured as .6 volts each, +/-. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It is possible – but the polarity is not critical on an AC device. > Only possible effect would be the ambient magnetism being backwards > from the field current magnetism. > The fact that output increased rapidly when "full fielded" means you > have both fiels and stator continuity. > I would pull your bridge and put 12 volts AC on the stator side and > see what you get out of the fiels side. What diodes were originally on > the bridge? What are you using now? Possibly you have too high a > forward drop. If you are using silicon diodes you have a minimum .6V > forward drop. If it had Germanium diodes, the drop was only roughly > 0.3 volts. If it had a "plate" rectifier, either selenium or copper > oxide, the forward drop is higher, IIRC.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> what can you tell us about the regulator?pics would be a good idea > there does have to be one, doesn’t there?(my work has been on car > alternators, but its the same thing just smaller) > what is the voltage to the rotor (i.e across the cap like john asked)when > the generator is running? > my guess is 0v, if it is 0v what is the voltage on the stator side of the > bridge rectifier? > your output voltages seem ok(by this l mean if you get 10.5v to 115 then the > 1 to 1.5v should hit about 12v l think) >I placed the readings you asked for on my web page along with some >more photos and questions. >http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm Let me know what you >think. Also, there are photos showing what might be the voltage >regulator. Thanks >Reading across capacitor (rotor side of bridge rectifier) – 1.4 volts >AC >Reading from stator side of bridge rectifier – .4 volts AC >Reading from rotor with bridge rectifier removed – 52 volts AC >Reading from input side of stator with bridge rectifier removed – 1.5 >volts AC

Hold on— NEVER put AC on the rotor/field. It demagnetises. You have 1.4 volts AC on the stator side of the bridge. That is less than or equal to the voltage drop on your bridge, so of course the field will not build, and you will not get an output. The cap is accross the input to the bridge, which is the output of the stator – is it not? How do you get 1.4 and .4 at the same place? The exciter voltage is coming off the 12 volt winding of the stator? IF you get 52 volts off the stator with the bridge removed, I’d be very suspicious of your bridge. I’d just order a full wave bridge from DigiKey or whoever. A 200 volt prv, 25 amp bridge is only about $8 canadian, or $5 US. General instrument part is # gbpc2502gi-nd from digi-key. It is less than an inch square and has ~ on each AC (stator) terminal and + – on the DC terminals. Open circuit off the bridge you should see from 50 to 73 volts DC. To test before replacing the bridge, try this, with the bridge removed: Put a low current test light on the stator output – see how bright it lights and how much the voltage drops. Running at lower speed, connect a 12 volt bulb, like a 194, and see how bright it lights – then increase the speed and measure the voltage as it comes up.

Response:

I misread you – you say 52 volts AC FROM the rotor? Sounds like your stator is magnetised. The rotor should ONLY see DC, and the stator should ONLY see AC. The brushes put current INTO the rotor to magnetise it. The stator puts AC current OUT. The bridge converts some of that AC output into DC to feed the field. You CANNOT start that generator under load, or it will NOT put out power. The generator starts spinning, and the residual magnetism in the rotor induces a low voltage AC in the stator. The bridge converts that to DC which it feeds back to the rotor, making the magnet stronger. The stronger magnet produces a higher output from the stator. The stator output to the field is limited, either by reactance, resistance, electronic control, or whatever, to limit the output of the alternator main stator to nameplate voltage.

Response:

I do not notice any magnetism with the stator. I have not been starting it with a load. I have tried running it for 5 to 10 minutes to see if it needed to build up some magnetism but it made no difference. As far as the readings, this is what I get. Refer to points A,B,C,D on the bridge rectifier diagram on this web page if you have questions as to where I am taking the readings. http://members.rushmore.com/~brand/generator.htm Readings from rotor side(A and B) and stator side(C and D) of bridge with bridge installed. Rotor side (A and B): 1.4 volts with multimeter set to AC 1.4 volts with multimeter set to DC Stator side:(C and D): .4 volts with multimeter set to AC .4 volts with multimeter set to DC Reading from rotor side(A and B) and stator side(C and D) of bridge with bridge removed. Rotor side (A and B): 52 volts with multimeter set to AC -.5 to .5 volts fluctuating with meter set to DC Stator side:(C and D): 1.3 volts with multimeter set to AC -.5 to .5 volts fluctuating with meter set to DC – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I misread you – you say 52 volts AC FROM the rotor? Sounds like your > stator is magnetised. The rotor should ONLY see DC, and the stator > should ONLY see AC. The brushes put current INTO the rotor to > magnetise it. The stator puts AC current OUT. The bridge converts some > of that AC output into DC to feed the field. You CANNOT start that > generator under load, or it will NOT put out power. The generator > starts spinning, and the residual magnetism in the rotor induces a low > voltage AC in the stator. The bridge converts that to DC which it > feeds back to the rotor, making the magnet stronger. The stronger > magnet produces a higher output from the stator. The stator output to > the field is limited, either by reactance, resistance, electronic > control, or whatever, to limit the output of the alternator main > stator to nameplate voltage.

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